T O P
izfanx

PSU section too simplified. Cek komponen yg lo mau pake, hitung wattage pake kalkulator online, terus kesini: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ dan baca dari Tier C ke atas. Rating 80+ jaman sekarang udah main tempel doang, ga menjamin komponen yg dipake bagus semua, ato designnya masuk akal. "Kok ribet?" Kalo lo mau PC meledug apalagi di Indo yg infra listriknya masih kurang bagus, ya silahkan.


Ok_Display_3148

>Rating 80+ jaman sekarang udah main tempel doang True, misalnya [https://i.imgur.com/rkcWlGN.png](https://i.imgur.com/rkcWlGN.png) Liat brand PSU itu penting.


izfanx

Iya ngeliat brand bisa ngebantu, tapi dari brand yg sama pun (Seasonic misalnya) mereka tetep ngeluarin unit yg jelek dan bagus. Paling aman emg liat tier list.


DubiousZeus

Betul, merk ga menjamin. Ga semua merk itu juga produsen, artinya mereka cuma jual brand sementara produknya outsource dari produsen lain, disebutnya OEM. Lebih parah lagi, untuk seri yg sama, produsennya bisa beda kalo beda tahun. Inilah kenapa tier list PSU itu selalu berubah. Contoh: [Cooler Master V700 \(2013\)](http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page364.htm) itu tipe yg paling direkomendasikan saat itu, OEMnya Seasonic, lalu discontinued, dan sekarang OEMnya ganti ke Enhance.


ManggaAsem

>Paling aman emg liat tier list. Link tier list terpercaya dimana?


izfanx

itu gw taro di comment pertama


FireWyvern_

Gigabyte aja brand terkenal meleduk itu kemarin-kemarin


Draco_Greysoul

Kemudian diroast berjilid-jilid sama Gamer Nexus.


bitelaserkhalif

Merk ex Korea ya.... Bbrp udah tersertifikasi sih, cuma ya gacha barang 2nd. (Coba aja browsing ke [danawa.com](https://danawa.com)) Yg palsu 80+nya tuh InnXvation sama Armageduar. Aerocock jg sus (walau 80plus asli) Link danawa: Yg kiri| Yg kanan ---|--- http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=3538153 | http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=1203126 http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=2707171 | http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=730605 (mungkin rev pertama) http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=730605 | http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=820890 asalkan bukan psu 천궁 파워 ([psu corensi](https://fjb.kaskus.co.id/product/5c4d65eb6df2312de31cd3ac/power-supply-pure-corensi-500w-seri-5000-dual-v22)), [dlu viral karena meledak](https://namu.wiki/w/천궁%28파워서플라이%29) Fun fact: Dari semua PSU tersebut, 5/6 masih pada jualan. Kecuali Powerrex


sFlure

Psu yng penting beli merek terkenal aja udh gk usah main main sama merek kurang terkenal stick to seasonic, corsair, evga, cooler master, bequiet mau aga nyeleneh superflower, leadex, thermaltake, silverstone


izfanx

Even seasonic, corsair, evga, and CM makes shitty units on their budget line. Dan tau market PC di indo, gw yakin banyak yg ngelirik budget line mereka. Makanya tetep penting ngeliat tier listnya.


sFlure

bner si jng ngeliat brand aja, misalnya seasonic s12evo itu aga sampah tp lumayan laku psu itu g simpel, kalo mau bener bener aman ya beli yng 80+ gold merek terkenal, to mahal & cuma 99% jaminan aja, kyk misalnya seasonic gold ada yng budget (core) & mainstream (focus)


motoxim

Sad Corsair 430 Eco noises.


hell_crawler

>easonic, corsair, evga, and CM makes shitty units on their budget line oh ya????? :(


No_Distance_1164

ya, they buy their design from an original design manufacturer and manufacture it on another company. So it's best to see the price tag, not the brand label


hell_crawler

so... the cheapest psu that is safe to use would be around ... Rp?


No_Distance_1164

I'd say around 500ish IDR for a single rail, non-modular 500w power supply, any brand but I stay away form brands only available for domestic market like simbadda enlight vurrion etc


hell_crawler

Aye


silently_watch

leadex bukannya superflower juga ya? Ini soalnya lagi pake superflower leadex full modular udah beberapa tahun aman aja sih, sebelumnya pake psu gatotkaca, wkwk


fajarmanutd

Mau nambahin 1 merk lagi ke kategori nyeleneh : FSP. Pernah pake kelas entry level (Bronze) 400W. Listrik PLN pernah bermasalah parah (kulkas ibu kos sampe rusak), tapi PSU tersebut berjasa melindungi komponen PC lainnya. Granted, pas gue nyalain PC sempat terjadi letupan kecil (dan nge-trip saklar meteran listrik), tapi cuma PSU nya yang rusak.


No_Distance_1164

FSP itu bikin oem juga buat merk2 pc prebuilt, sekelas foxconn dan seasonic. Gw pake HP prodesk PSUnya 180w kuat buat ngangkat i3 6100, 1 ssd dan 1 HDD 10k rpm


ryanagamis

Superflower banyak main sebagai OEM brand, dan kualitasnya lumayan juga. 450w bronze king masih ngangkat ryzen yg 65w sama rtx 3060 ti. Tambahan, den gen gold modular ratingnya lumayan bagus di tier list di forum LTT. Kalo di Indonesia dengen seri itu dipake sama digital alliance, cuma ya kalo emang mau cari aman mending brand yang garansinya jelas.


lazy_tenno

btw, PSU GOLD+ 850 WATT MODULAR dengan harga sangat menggiurkan: SUS AF, RED FLAG


Toleot

PSU Gigabyte dong... pas abis pasang langsung ada soundFX "the bomb has been planted".


lebaran

PSU yang proper design itu harusnya gak masalah dengan input listrik PLN yang sering bervariasi. Setidaknya harus bisa bekerja di rentang 180V - 245V (kalau untuk yang wide input voltage bisa beroperasi dari tegangan 90V - 250V) dengan tetap mempertahankan tegangan dan juga kapasitas outputnya. Kalau untuk soal efisiensi ya memang bisa berubah tergantung tegangan inputnya.


sFlure

- psu: personally i would go minimum 80+ bronze, even pc ‘kantor’ ortu gw yng cuma i3 gw kasih corsair cv450 semua, yes its overkill but as you said better safe than sorry, 80+ platinum is not overkill kalo lu pake high end pc, wouldn’t a 3090 with gold apalagi bronze - ax20 series motherboard selain non overclockable jg masih pada stuck di pcie gen 3, as a a520 user (males overclock & g butuh pcie gen4) not recommended just go b550 beda dikit - motherboard matx akan selalu lbh murah drpd atx for obvious reasons, but itx bakalan lumayan lbh mahal krn niche product (only buy if you’re building a sffpc) - the x in ryzen series is basically a better binned version, not always overclockable than non x - intel juga bikin gpu beneran: coming soon namanya arc 3/5/7xx - recommend gpu sorted by price: rx6400,rx6500,rx6600,rx6600xt,rtx3060, rx6700…..(rtx3050 harganya bangsat) also as he said pls dont buy 1650 or 1660


Pandawisdom

Jangan buka r/sffpc. NSFW semua bikin ngaceng.


sFlure

works for me, gw jadi ngaceng pas covid kemaren, meja gw skrng ada nr200p lol


Pandawisdom

Tu kan bangsat :`) Okela taun depan upgrade case. Mini itx pake yg mana bro?


sFlure

my spec - ryzen 3600 w/ scythe mugen 5 cooler - a520i gigabyte (only itx amd motherboard under 2jt lol) - 8x2 3200mhz cl16ram - 1tb adata sx8200pro (ssd gacha lol) & 2 2tb seagate 2.5inch hdd (3.5inch gk muat) - rx580 4gb (bekas mining, also bekas egpu) - cooler master nr200p w/ cooler master v650 sfx 80+ gold gw rencana upgrade nanti 2025, or when spec xbox series s udh jadi minimum requirement 1080p gaming


nivagad

Awalnya pengen nr200, tp berhubung msh punya psu corsair atx tahun 2015 yg msh sehat, akhirnya beli cube axel yg support matx/itx/sfx


sFlure

bisa koq pake psu atx di nr200, skrng cm jual bracket atx psu terpisah tp gk tau di indo ada ato gk, also sebelum ini mereka ada kasih specny biar bisa 3d print sendiri, dan disini ada beberapa yng jual yng 3d printed also have an axel as my mom’s pc (cuz she liked my nr200) compared to nr200 honestly im quite surprised, even the weight is like 8/10 compared to nr200 which is good, also you can mount a watercooler radiator at the top because it has a metal bracket & better for most people because it supports matx (its taller than nr200), it’s basically a better nr200 lol only slightly worse build quality


[deleted]

[удалено]


nivagad

build gw non rgb, psu atx non modular, tower air cooler, vga non riser, dan non tempered white axel. ​ so, ga menarik sih.. :D


notfaithenough_

spek gini kalo maen game RESING mentok 1080p dapet berapa fps?


sFlure

Horizon 5 bisa diatas 60fps


juviegar

Bekas mining serem ga sih? Berhubung sekarang crypto crash, di toped gw search GTX 1080 Ti udah nyentuh 5jt harganya tapi ex mining.


sFlure

miners veteran & jaman sekarang beda, ini kartu gw beli 2019 dan itu ya abis crash 2018 kalo dulu gw berani berani aja krn gw tau lu bukan sembarang orang klo tau mining, now everyone and their kids is mining, gak tau deh hardwarenya dimaintain sebagus ap banyak yng asal mining aja kaga diunderclock or worse, cooling gk bener


juviegar

I see. Emang kalo jaman sekarang lebih menjamur sih mining farm yg kadang ga dirawat dgn bener GPUnya.


sFlure

for example ada temen ortu gw yng mining, gw sempet ngeliat dan gw aga cringe ngeliat settingny, dia even hire ‘admin’ bwt mantau but he doesn’t really know shit, doesn’t even know you can undervolt gpu ffs dont get me started on that mlm mining farm in tangerang


juviegar

Wkwk the absolute state of "teknisi lokal". Komunitas tech aja jauh lebih resourceful.


jowojindesu

ternyata ada juga yang pake nr200p juga disini. Tadinya pake SG13, trus liat ada nr200p yang dijual murah (gak pake riser), jadinya pindah ke nr200p.


sFlure

Nr200 itu basically sffpc case sejuta umat, gak heran banyak yng beli, gw beli yng p krng tempered glass window lol & dpt 2 fan 120mm instead satu 92mm minusnya cuma gk bisa mounting radioator di atas krn dia full plastic, bisa si kalo dipaksain ada yng coba, mkny ada nr200 max yng udh preinstaled


McDonald4Lyfe

sg13 here


sFlure

problem with sg13 is you either have to use a low profile cpu cooler, which means gk bisa pake processor terlalu bagus or go watercooling, for a beginners case watercooling isn’t really recommended oh it also looks like a shoebox mau watercooling sffpc might aswell go lianli a4h20 or nr200max or nzxt h1


McDonald4Lyfe

cute little shoebox yeah untungnya gue pake i5 11500 doang, air cooling masih aman


Craft099

Gara2 gua buka r/watercooling jadinya aku beli inwin 303 lagi diskon sejuta doang. Pengen watercooling tapi missqueen.


Pandawisdom

Water cooling ama ram rgb itu pure pemborosan...tapi pingin


kmame

Kalo misalnya mau build spek gahar (misal Ryzen 9 5950X + RTX 3090Ti) tapi small form factor pake case SG13 itu masuk akal ga ya secara coolingnya? kalo dipake misal main cyberpunk ultra set. tiap hari durable ga ya?


willpower_11

Emgny 3090Ti bs muat msk di SG13?


Pandawisdom

Ini


kmame

sorry ga research sebelum nanya, misal pake [casing under 10 L kayak gini](https://youtu.be/_GhFSSLp-mE), point yang mau aku tanya itu apakah SFF kayak gini yang bisa ngeluarin panas gede banget itu bisa durable 5-10 tahun atau lebih cepet rusak disebabkan thermal output besar dan air circulation yang sedikit ya? sorry masih awam baru mau planning rakit PC...


shotakun

mohon belajar di sini https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AddRvGWJ_f4B6UC7_IftDiVudVc8CJ8sxLUqlxVsCz4/htmlview


izfanx

> wouldn’t get a 3090 with gold apalagi bronze I would lol. well, at the very least gold, dan komponen PSUnya udh terbukti bagus. At that point it's just a difference in efficiency, nothing more.


rndwashere

> he said pls dont buy 1650 or 1660 This is due to crazy price or related to some performance?


sFlure

both, plus the fact its kinda ancient at this point, just get rx6500, the fsr will help honestly if you want the ‘best’ money/performance gpu these days, rx6600, cheaper than rtx3050 but significantly, i mean more than 50% more powerful oh also rx6600 will be the new minimum in a few years, thank you xbox series s


LeafGuardian

Buat yg pakai high end gpu terutama nvidia, disaranin pakai yg 2x recomended wattage. kadang ada spike yg muncul dan itu buat psu mati karena ga kuat. [selengkapnya disini](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRyyCsuHFQ)


izfanx

nvidiot anjing emg


RingThick9216

Rule of thumb: if you want to cut your budget, never cut on psu


dwngg

Yup, better cut down on the gpu or anything else and upgrade it later


juviegar

Cutting down on ram is the most logical move.


elonelon

HDD over SSD, coz why not.


HornyTerus

SSD tu... gmn ya, penting la, beli yang kecil aja buat bootup aja. terus beli hdd yang gede mampus.


indomienator

True. My 2nd PSU died(supposedly a 450W bronze 80+). My 1st PSU(220W no classification) runs just fine Now im in the third though. My i5 3570+RX 570 rig runs fine. My games are not that heavy anyway


dhannemon13

Care to give some gaming benchmark result of your setup? (paling fps dari game yang lu mainin sebagai referensi aja) Kebetulan setup kita mirip (Xeon E3-1225 v2 lol) dan gue lagi ngejer nabung RX 570.


indomienator

Game apa? Ane game paling berat dan bisa dimainin(udah didownload) BF1, HOI4(CPU),GTAV


dhannemon13

Semuanya yang disebut bisa tuh.


indomienator

HOI4 kalo udah perang gefe mulai melambat(anekdot, mager bencymark game ini) Nanti ane kasih tau buat 2 game yg lain. BF1 rata2 maen 2x sama GTA5 pake in game benchmark setting semua V.high


ysupr

gw baru tau PSU itu ada yg anteng, ada yg ribut, punya gw yg ribut, gak ribut gimana-gimana, cuma ya ada suara nya dan gw yakin bukan dari kipas processor. punya adek gw kalem asli, pc dihidupin gak ada suara tambahan, gak kerasa kalau nyala. memang gitu gak sih?


juviegar

Bener. Kalo udah tier B ke atas, biasanya punya fitur silent mode kalo ga narik power tinggi. Bahkan bisa fannya ga muter kalo daya yg dipake 30% ato kurang (dari kapasitas PSU). Contohnya Seasonic Focus punya grafik fan kayak gini https://i.imgur.com/zcChWdN.jpg


ysupr

ah, silent mode ya.. baru tau. punya gw yg ini https://www.static-src.com/wcsstore/Indraprastha/images/catalog/full//87/MTA-36303611/simbadda_simbadda_power_supply_battleground_550w_full01_su2ow7l5.jpg dan ya gitu. berarti kalau mau harus cari nya PSU yang support silent mode ya?


blitchz

waduh simbadda hati2 meleduk gan


ysupr

haha macam mana pula nak hati-hati, sudah dipasang pun.


blitchz

Kalau pcnya cuma buat office doang mah aman, kalau udah mulai ngegame ya hati-hati aja


ysupr

that;s the thing, gw lebih dari office, tapi mungkin tidak gaming, tapi dipakai virtualization, 10 hours a day, paling malam cuma di suspend, dan besok nya dipakai lagi haha


No_Distance_1164

ya itu dia, PSU murah railnya sering gak stabil dan noisy. brownout bisa ngerusak komponen PC


motoxim

Tergantung juga sih, dulu saya pakai simbadda 10 tahunan aman aman aja terus baru gak bisa nyala akhirnya. Cuma ya emang low power PC sih bahkan bukan mid tier.


blitchz

Kalau low tier mah gpp apalagi kalau cuma buat buka office, di kantor gw juga pake simbadda aman


motoxim

Iya dulu buat core2duo sih.


juviegar

Yap


SonicsLV

Too simplified and quite misleading IMO. ### PSU: Don't trust any 80+ rating. They're meaningless now. Besides it only measure energy efficiency, not build quality or safety of the PSU itself. Always refer to the PSU tier list (just search for it). In doubt, stick to trusted brand name (for me it's Seasonic as they have official distributor here and the OEM of most other top tier PSU) and while expensive PSU don't guarantee good quality, cheap PSU always guarantee to be shit tier. For power rating, the higher you go the better. It's a misconception that 450W PSU will draw lower power than 600W PSU for example. The power draw will determined by your components, the PSU power rating is the max power it can provide. However, let's go back to the 80+ rating. Remember that I said it measures efficiency? Basically a 100% efficiency PSU that draws 600W from the wall can supply 600W (total) of power to your components. A 60% efficiency PSU meanwhile draws 600W of power from the wall but only supply 360W of power to the components. The rest of 240W is wasted into heat and other things. 80+ rating is only guaranteed that the PSU can have at least 80% of efficiency on Bronze. With silver, gold, and platinum it get higher efficiency guarantee but that's it. But efficiency is not linear too. A 600W PSU can have 95% efficiency when the load is between 100W-500W for instance and dropped into 85% efficiency as it nearing it's maximum wattage. This is why getting higher wattage PSU is always reccomended as many PSU is the most efficient when they're not drawing the power near their limit. Currently 650W-800W seems to be in the best value range for PSU. And as a bonus, you don't need to worry if your PSU can power your PC or not. ### Motherboard For form factor, stick to ATX and mATX (micro ATX) unless you know what you doing. ATX is the large full sized rectangular board you often see in pictures. It's more expensive because more materials, but often it's high end and pack with features. mATX has the same width as ATX but shorter length, almost making it look like a square. mATX board are generally cheaper and aimed for lower end with just basic features. However there exists high end mATX board. As the storage trend now shifting into NVME SSD, do note that since the SSD is slotted right into the motherboard itself, smaller board like mATX might have limited slot, often only 1. Even most ATX board only have 2 slot. For these motherboards, you need typical PC tower case. Most of them can be accomodate ATX, although be careful that smaller tower case often only accepts mATX. If the case seems shorter than typical PC case, double check if it can accept ATX sized board, assuming you buy ATX board. For ITX, if you don't famliar with PC, my suggestion is stay away from it. ITX aimed for small computer. You can't cheat physics so with less space they must sacrifice many things, like expansion slot, I/O, and some even can't accept full length SSD. Also they're harder to build because the connectors are cramped due to , again, lack of space. ITX is for specialized case that prioritized size. ### GPU If you not going after traditional fps in games, go with nvidia. Nvidia offers a lot more other than fps compared to AMD. NVENC is still the best hardware encoder, you can record your game or anything on screen with good video quality almost without any performance penalty. Geforce experience is a good utility software once you past whining into the need to make an account for it (the account requirement is bad, but the rest of the software is useful). Ray tracing with RTX is also much better, including DLSS 2.0. And yes, if you don't play fully competitive and want immersive experience, RTX is a gamechanger. Try playing Control with RTX on. G-Sync also technically superior to FreeSync, if you can afford the monitor. If you want AMD card, I'd still say go with nvidia unless you running linux or find a really good deal. For Nvidia cards, here the rough guidelines: * xx60: the most basic in the series. This is your low end card that fully capable to run everything in its generation. Guaranteed satisfaction in 1080p. * xx70: A bit better than xx60 and lately the best price/performance. This card is aimed at running games at 2K. Will have a good performance headroom for years ahead too. * xx80: The high tier card. Very expensive, but it should be able to run games in 4K high settings smoothly. If you still think about price, you can't afford this. Will be able to play many new AAA games for years ahead easily albeit with lower resolution. Dropping from 4K to 2K is sacrilege right? * xx90: If you still need this thread, don't even think about it. Usually few months after launch they will release some new SKU: * xx50: cut down version of xx60. Cheaper but will have some problems with some latest game. The cost cutting measures taken for this card will start to give some compromises. It might be memory, it might the frequency, or anything else varies between generation. Good for most stuff, but still reccomended to get xx60 card if you can get it. * xx30: DO NOT TOUCH THIS. It will be very cheap but the performance will be very bad. It's better to buy older higher tier generation card or save more until you can buy better card. * xxxxTi / Super: A refresh of the generation, generally a bit higher performance than the vanilla model. Some xx50Ti might be worth it as it would be very similar to xx60. For AMD card, looks for reviews and see what nvidia card it compares with. Why we compare AMD to nvidia and not the other way around? Because AMD only competes in price and rasterized fps performance but lacking the added values that nvidia card has. You don't really need to care about the card memory type or how many memory it have as long as you stick into xx60 (and AMD equivalent) and above and you generally shouldn't buy anything lower than xx50 (and equivalent) anyway as it's generally better to get the previous gen higher tier card. The cheapest card is only for someone who just need a monitor output and don't care of performance or even running games at all. Brands generally doesn't matter in GPU. Everything with the same chip classification will generally perform very similarly unless it's the OC or preoverclocked version that will have slightly better performance. ### Memory Since we still in DDR4 era, having a physically 2 sticks of memory is a must. However keep in mind that you need to put the sticks in correct place in your motherboard (usually color coded in high end board or just read the manual) so you get the benefit of dual channel. Memory speed has high performarce impact especially on AMD Ryzen system. However you got diminishing return after 3000Mhz. So try to buy sticks that rated above 3000Mhz, most common nowadays is 3200Mhz and 3600Mhz. If the difference in price is small enough (<200K) get the higher clock stick. If you buying new system with DDR5, the physical 2 sticks requirement doesn't apply anymore as DDR5 already run dual channel with each stick. HOWEVER, do notice that whatever stick you buy, it will run by default as 2333Mhz as it's the standard DDR4 specification. To fully utilize your extra speed, you need to enable or set the memory speed into XMP profile, which done in your computer BIOS. Read the motherboard manual if you not familiar how to do it. You can easily check if your PC running XMP in windows by going to task manager -> performance -> memory and see the speed value. If it say 2333Mhz, you haven't enable XMP yet. Again, brands generally doesn't really matter here. Compatibility issues with motherboard might exists, but it's very very rare today. ### CPU Honestly nowadays any CPU is already overkill. Unless you know you need something that require CPU power (including eliminating bottleneck for your ultimate gaming experience), you wont feel the difference between Intel Core i3, i5, i7, i9 Ryzen3, Ryzen5, Ryzen7, Ryzen9 and their recent generations. Aside from the placebo that your new expensive high number CPU is super fast to that other PC. There is difference of course between Pentium to Core or Athlon to Ryzen but they are targeting very different market. Don't splurge too much on CPU unless you can afford the money or know that you need the extra computing power. Btw, Intel Core i5-2500K is still considered very usable CPU today (a little slow obviously) and it's 11 years old CPU. Obviously don't buy it now and pick recent gen instead, but it illustrated how little CPU impact your typical usage nowadays. **Overclocking**: Do you need to overclock? Short answer is NO. As I said, CPU performance nowadays already typically overkill so you gain almost nothing on real world experience with overclocking it. People do overclock more as a hobby nowadays. Also overclock will not make your CPU or motherboard break sooner if the motherboard is from reputable one. There are many protections these days that you can't accidentally brick it. However the effort to overclock CPU is not worth the gain for daily use. ### Mouse and keyboard Often neglected, but don't buy cheap ones. These are the things you physically touch, and they contribute a lot to your satisfaction on using your computer. If possible, try things that comfortable for you. Mechanical keyboard is not always better, personally I still prefer my rubber dome keyboard that is full size, have tons of macro keys, dedicated media buttons (fuck Fn key), quieter, and much cheaper than mechanical keyboard with same features. For mouse, always try it first if possible. Big names like logitech or razer should have a shop where you can try them. Lighter mouse also doesn't always means it's better, heck some mouse actually have the option to add more weight. Higher dpi and polling rate is also basically a scam. Find keyboard and mouse you like best and it's perfectly fine to go against popular products / opinion.


sFlure

mending lu bikin thread lg


RoaRene317

Di rangkum aja untuk yg GPU , 1. Kalau emang cmn buat main game doang, pilih AMD Radeon gk masalah 2. Udah sama editing atau coding atau pake blender, ambil NVIDIA. Emang lebih mahal tapi fitur seperti NVENC dan juga NVIDIA Optix gak ada yg saingin di AMD.


SonicsLV

Yup. Even for gaming, if you find nvidia and AMD cards with similar performance (based on reviews) and price, it's better to get the nvidia card. I intentionally didn't put specific model recommendations because price are always fluctuating and price here doesn't always scaled similarly with the MSRP.


motoxim

Wah hati hati nanti dibilang fanboy Nvidia.


RoaRene317

Lebih kearah ekosistem CUDA nya gak ada lawan. AMD menangnya di game murni (Non Ray Tracing). Kalau udah Ray Tracing , Apalagi digabung sama kerjaan seperti Blender, Adobe Premiere , Tensorflow (buat AI) , NVIDIA aja. Ini lebih menang. Kalau streaming sih gk terlalu beda banget. Yg bikin beda banget itu adalah fitur NVIDIA Broadcast yang dimana bisa buat noise cancelling dan Video Background Removal pake AI. Itu cmn eksklusif di NVIDIA.


SonicsLV

Addendum since it go over 10k characters. ### Cooling For typical usage, the HSF (Heatsink & Fan) that supplied with your CPU generally is enough. However they do have drawback of being a bit louder and have less headroom which means shorter running at turbo speed and can't overclocked well. If you only lightly use your PC, you don't need to worry about this too much. However, if you want to overclock or running your PC for long time, it's still better to upgrade your cooling system. There are generally 2 option: water cooling and air cooling. * Air cooling: It's the traditional HSF. A common misconception is that air cooling performs worse than water cooling. This is false. Air cooling is as good or even better than AIO water cooling solution, depending on the specs. As usual, you can't cheat physics. The bigger and faster the fan and the bigger heatsink with more copper material, the better the cooling performance will be. A good HSF will start around 400k, anything lower than that will just be as bad (or worse) as your default HSF. A good HSF will use tower configuration (the fan is mounted vertical compared to the CPU) with 6-8 heatpipes and lot of thin radiator fins. The bigger the size, the quieter it will be, however you obviously going to need a bigger case. A flat/horizontal configuration mostly abandoned today as usually it has worse performance (again physics) and using smaller fans which means it need to spin faster and thus louder (more physics). Those are aimed for smaller pc case, so don't bother with that unless you know what you doing. * Water cooling: Make no mistake that the main benefit of water cooling is not performance, but rather silence (which most big air cooling is as silent too) and looks cooler and cleaner as there's no bulky thing on top of your motherboard. However the trade off is it's actually more bulky, although most the bulkiness (which is the radiator and pump) can easily be hidden or arranged more aesthetically in the case, require more maintenance (you don't want a leak in your computer, the water can be contaminated, and the pump obviously can jammed), and of course more expensive. If you go with water cooling, AIO (all in one) is more common solution these days and they are premanufactured and you just install it like typical component. Of course it would be more expensive and rather restricted but it also eliminate most of maintenance issues although it would be almost impossible to repair it. If you want the ultimate water cooling, you still need to build it yourself (often called custom watercooling) which still would be expensive and much more riskier especially with leaks and contaminants. But you will indeed get gorgeous looking window in your PC case with good performance If you need to read this thread, custom watercooling is definitely not reccomended unless you pay an expert to do it for you. Case airflow: Another important part in cooling is the case airflow. The basics is simple: your case can "breathe in" cool air from outside and "breathe out" hot air from inside. The most basic way to do it is having dedicated holes for each. Most mid range casings right now already equipped with a removeable mesh for intake which will help with filtering dust. Make sure the case you selected do not block the holes with another thing (usually a solid front panel) and when placing your case, remember to leave sufficient gap to the wall so it can actually breathe. For case fans, you'd want for intake as it's the primary source the dust will come in from so you can control that. Ideally you have equal number of intake and exhaust fans but it doesn't really matter actually. Your case isn't airtight so you the air will naturally use every tiny gap to equalize itself. Cabling inside your casings is important too to not blocking the airflow too much. Most cases now have space to do the cabling behind the main cabinet so it's easier. As long as the intake can have clear path to the exhaust passing your HSF/radiator/GPU, it should be enough.


izfanx

ITX is not for specialized use, not anymore at least. With how capable chipsets are nowadays, yeah you can get less IOs due to the lack of space but it's still plenty for most use case. Dan buat orang yang kerjaannya main gim doang, beli NR200, build seperti biasa, and now you have a decent PC that doesn't take unholy amounts of space. > Brands generally doesn't matter in GPU Still, stick to well known ones. Semua design yg dijual iya udah lewat spek yg di provide AMD / Nvidia. But why settle for a louder cooler when you can get a quieter one? Or have that peace of mind knowing one brand provides better post-purchase support than the other? These can be a source of frustration down the line.


SonicsLV

It specialized as it's designed primarily around physical size and will make compromises to achieve that goal. There's no reason to get ITX board if you don't care about the final size of your system. Some people like small forms and that's good for them. But for others who don't value it that much, especially beginners, better stay away from ITX. And for brands, that's a fair point but not really limited to GPU. Basically every brands importance in computer world is about customer service, not performance (of course there is difference in performance but largely negligible). Except PSU and SSD where a brand still matters a lot on quality and performance.


izfanx

That's the problem I have with your statements I guess. Just because you're a beginner does not mean you'll not care about size. Makanya gw lebih recommend do your research, daripada stay away.


SonicsLV

That's why in my original statement I said "unless you know what you doing", which implied if someone want to pick ITX, they better know what they doing with their choice. Beginners can know what they doing with ITX and have small form factor goal obviously, but most don't. The problem with ITX is it's a product line that already make a lot of compromises to fulfill the primary goal of physical size. Nothing wrong with that and there is good ITX board, but when a product already making compromises for single goal, it makes them into niche territory. And niche products is not reccomended to anyone who doesn't share or even understand their prioritized goals. This doesn't only apply to ITX, but rather any products as well.


sFlure

> ITX is not for specialized use Theres a reason its more expensive than atx motherboards while offering less, lu beli itx tapi pake casing tower buat apa?? itx is specifically for small pc, makanya mostly ada power supply sfx yng juga lbh mahal drpd psu atx at the same certification & watts, oh also itx chipset & vrm isn’t always better than other slightly more expensive motherboard, the reason itx is expensive because its kinda niche, and most of us are gonna put ‘good’ components on it might aswell build it good than just average


izfanx

Well, either my definition of specialized is too strict, or you folks are too loose. Kalo buat komponen elektroniknya, mahal karena you have less space to do the same. More engineering needs to be done. Kalo casing ITX mahal, ya itu gw setuju karena lebih niche.


PembohongYangJujur

Bagus nih. Lebih bagus daripada OP bikin. Mending lu bikin yang lebih detail dari OP punya karena OP punya "guide" sebenernya bahaya kalo dibaca orang yang gak ngerti.


kindaforgotit

Kalo terkait monitor ada saran gak?


SonicsLV

Ugh the draft is very long and I'm too tired. Anything specific you want to know? Generally know what you want to do: super competitive gaming or super cheap: get TN/VA panel, everything else: IPS. Size: Get 22"-24" for 1080p, 27" for 2K, 32" and above for 4K. Aim to have multi monitor setup (or ultrawide if you have extra budget) since it will be really helpful for productivity. For gaming: get at least 120hz (there already a lot IPS panel option too if you not into super competitive gaming), freesync/gsync is a must. HDR is also nice even though it's still fake HDR right now for monitor in sane prices. Super competitive gaming can get 144+Hz TN panel with freesync/gsync. For digital content creation: IPS with 10bit color and DCI-P3 color space. Professional color calibration isn't really needed as your consumer will also see it through their monitor with varying quality. For physical content (anything that printed or manufactured): IPS with 10bit color, 100% DCI P3 or Adobe RGB color space and professional color calibration (either use 3rd party service or one that come with factory color calibration certificate). If you need more than that, your company should pay for the super expensive designer monitor (or if you have that kind of money, go ahead). Useful features: Freesync/Gsync (must have for new non budget monitors), USB-C and USB hub, 10 bit (even fake 8bit+FRC unless for physical content), HDR (even fake HDR), overdrive settings, strobing, ability to pivot (unless if you use monitor arm), PIP or PBP if you plan to connect the monitor to more than 1 device, hardware cross hair (some community consider this cheating though and you can easily just use erasable marker or clear cellotape for same thing). Useless features: speakers (always bad), black equalizer (just increasing gamma and make the picture worse, you can do it easily from driver or game settings), Super resolution (just increasing sharpness, making image worse and can be done in driver) low blue light (can be done in windows setting and it will make things looks worse), RGB. Many gamey features like black equalizer, super resolution, etc has different names for different brands, however the implementation is basically the same. Also using monitor arm is actually very nice thing to have. You need to buy it separately and it makes the setup a little bit more difficult but once you install it, it makes adjusting your monitor much easier and you get all tilt/pivot/swivel capability especially when very little monitor default stand have all 3 adjustment. Also freeing up more desk space. Just make sure your monitor is VESA mount compatible (basically every monitor has it).


kindaforgotit

Wow, makasih banyak, tapi gw ada satu pernyataan lagi, ada rekomendasi terkait brand? Kayak misal brand A itu mahal tapi kualitas bagus, brand B itu murah tapi murahan, etc.


SonicsLV

LG has good basic IPS and content creator monitors, their gaming line isn't that competitive (but they make the IPS panels tho so IPS monitors most likely using LG panel). Asus ROG is more gamer oriented, kinda safe choice although you pay more premium. Acer with prxxmiiisdmcaiocnasofdnasxpca naming is super confusing and has good gaming monitor at value but many bad/meh one, you need to be super careful with them. Samsung and Benq/ZOWIE are practically the only high end TN panel player today. Samsung Odyssey G5 and up are good but quite expensive, the G3 kinda meh. Viewsonic sometimes makes a really good value monitor. Gigabyte is new player in monitor space but so far their product actually really good/compelling. My current monitor actually Gigabyte M27Q and I'm very satisfied with it. rtings is the only comprehensive monitor reviews site atm afaik. Blurbusters forum has more display enthusiast and into more display technologies.


davidnotcoulthard

> If you want AMD card, I'd still say go with nvidia unless you running linux or find a really good deal. If you're running Linux it is indeed the other way around: If you want AMD card, I'd still say go with ~~nvidia~~ radeon unless you ~~running linux or find a really good deal~~ need CUDA.


joshucool

PSU: Jangan asal ambil 80+, mending cek dulu tier list nya (bisa diliat di [sini](https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-rev-148/)). Rekomen juga untuk ngecek load system kalo lagi full load, dan kalo memang ada rencana upgrade ke depannya boleh naikin wattagenya (cek load sistem di [sini](https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator)). Misal di outervision rekomennya 450W, saran gw ambil 550W atau 650W aja buat jaga2 ke depannya mau upgrade. Gw pake seasonic x650 dari 2015 sampe sekarang aman2 aja CPU: Cari yg sesuai kebutuhan, kalo mid range gaming dan creation gw rekomen Intel i5 (ga usah ambil yg seri terbaru, seri 10 udah mumpuni dan aman banget) atau Ryzen 7. Motherboard: Kalo ga ada rencana OC, mending ambil yg seri H (untuk Intel) atau seri Bx50 (AMD), pastiin juga storage yg lu mau pake seberapa banyak, biar ada slot SATA atau M.2 yang cukup di mobonya Storage: Go full SSD kalo lu ada budget, tapi kalo mau hemat pastiin at least ada 1 ssd sebagai boot drive, sisanya hdd gpp untuk gaming/mass storage Case: Sesuai selera dan kebutuhan, and never buy cheap-o cases (macam brand Sego\*ep, Daz\*mba, dll), dulu pake Sego\*ep power buttonnya baru dua bulan udah rusak. CPU Cooler: Kalo emang ga ada niatan OC, pake cooler bawaan gpp. Tapi beberapa prosesor jaman skrg (terutama seri K Intel dan X AMD) udah ga include cooler bawaan. Air Cooler > Liquid Cooler (fight me on this) Budget: Lebih baik nyicil beli part, daripada beli semuanya barengan. Enjoy your build and welcome to PCMR!


PembohongYangJujur

Mengutip film Halt and Catch Fire, "*PC is the thing that get you to the thing."* Seharusnya yang pertama kali dipikirkan sebelum membeli PC adalah, PC itu akan digunakan untuk apa? Dari situ baru kita pilih dulu alat2 yang digunakan untuk mengoperasikan PC tersebut. Butuh apa aja sih: Pertama lo butuh monitor. Tanpa monitor yang sesuai, tujuan akhir lo belum tentu tercapai. Beda kebutuhan, beda lagi tipe monitornya. Kedua lo butuh mouse & keyboard untuk nyuruh2 si PC. Again, beda kebutuhan beda lagi tipe mouse & keyboard yang digunakan. Ada beberapa alat input command lain yang bisa lo butuhin kayak Steering Wheel buat racing gamer, atau Midi Controller buat pemusik. Cuma ini niche. Tapi kalo lo butuh, tentuin disini. Sound output optional. Ada yang butuh, ada yang nggak. Buat yang ngerasa sound essential, pilih di stage ini. Setelah input dan output peripheral udah ditentuin semua mau yang mana dan seperti apa, baru deh dibangun sistemnya. simulasi enterkomputer tuh udah bagus banget ngurutin: Dimulai dari CPU. Trus Motherboard, trus GPU. Lalu sisanya dan paling terakhir baru PSU setelah lo itung sistem lo butuh berapa watt. Nah, diantara semua komponen sistem, PSU itu satu2nya komponen yang gak bisa dinego. Apapun sistem lu, lo butuh PSU yang bagus. Kalo lo ngerasa PSU-nya mahal banget, yang diturunin itu komponen lain. Otomatis PSU-nya bakal jadi lebih murah juga. Semua komponen bisa dihemat, beli yang budget, cuma PSU aja yang jangan.


lazy_tenno

i can't stress this enough: **hati-hati milih paketan komputer prebuilt di toko macam ENTERKOMPUTER dan semacamnya** pilihan hardware-hardware di paketannya itu suka bottleneck (besar pasak daripada tiang istilahnya) dan/atau ngabisin stok hardware yang ga laku. contoh: anak bos gw beli "gaming prebuilt" enterkomputer ryzen 5 5600X, tapi GPU nya RX 450, PSU nya merek ga jelas (kalo ga salah superflower), sama USB wifi yang ga berfungsi sama sekali. atau contoh lainnya cpu gpu sudah high end semua tapi casingnya merek ga jelas **non mesh** pula. yikes


PembohongYangJujur

E buset... Superflower itu merk bagus. Gak ada salahnya ama prebuilt. Selain banyak tiernya, prebuilt itu build generalist. Dibangun buat mentackle general use. Dalam general use, CPU lebih penting dari GPU. Problem dimana GPU butuh lebih kuat dari CPU itu cuma di high end gaming dan render.


DubiousZeus

Koreksi, Super Flower itu merk bagus yg jarang didenger di Indo, udah pemain lama. Buat lini high-end mereka (Leadex), dari kualitas komponen dan produk, kurang lebih setara ama lini high-end Seasonic.


TheBandot

PC pribadi pakai Superflower (Leadex III 750) bagus kok di range-nya secara harga sama peforma yang dihasilkan.


lazy_tenno

TIL, makasih untuk infonya


SonicsLV

SuperFlower is top tier OEM, competing with Seasonic.


Bewoulfavgaten

Tanya: harga? Rencana balik ke Indonesia. Pernah beberapa kali compare gue liat di Indo lebih mahal utk beberapa komponen. Menurut lo pada kalo gue beli di US Mobo + CPU dan VGA does it help to reduce the cost. Atau apalagi yg hrs gue beli. Yg pasti gue avoid bawa case dan PSU...lol FYI: gue stick dgn Intel


Pandawisdom

Lebih mahal sedikit tapi itung juga shipping nya, resiko nya. Kalo mobo pasti beli sini aja, gpu/cpu masih gampang di pack mungkin masih worth it.


Bewoulfavgaten

I'll try ro carry in my suitcase


Pandawisdom

That's not safe my dude. a carry on sure, probably works.


SonicsLV

It only cheaper if you hand carry it so avoiding shipping and import tax cost. Definitely GPU, but it will be even larger than PSU lol.


shotakun

if you’re buying abroad anything other than the case is way cheaper in the US cpu, gpu, ram, m.2 nvme ssd motherboard yang aga ribet adalah misalnya salah satu komponen ada yang dead on arrival, klaim garansinya susah


Practical_Highway_97

Pertanyaannya adalah, apakah harganya udh mulai turun? Gw liat yutub2 barat katanya pada dibawah MSRP, di indo kok belum ya? Apa disini listrik murah jadi mining masih profitable?


Karrigan7

seller sama distri sini emg historically suka ogah2an klo urusan turun harga tp gercep kenceng sigap soal naikin harga


juviegar

Bea cukai sih menurut gw, sama scalper disini masih berjaya kayaknya.


Pandawisdom

Yg harganya turun itu yg baru2, harga msrp tinggi, nah ini masuk indo uda kena pajak, daya beli masih sliwer2, jadi yg rtx3 masih tinggi misal 3050 harganya kaya orang ngajak ngocok pake pasir


Arifumi26

Gw rada naik darah setiap kali ngeliat pc rakitan di online shop, pake cpu seri high-end tapi mobo low end. TOLOL!!! Malah ada yang beli lagi TOLOL Sama kayak rakitan intel i5 atau i7 gen 1 dijual hampir 10 juta pake embel-embel "gaming editing". Ngadi-ngadi kau seller ajg, mending i3 gen 10 TOLOL!!!TOLOL SEMUANYA!! KALIAN SEMUA TOLOL!!!


jowojindesu

tambahan : Kalo rakit PC diatas 10 juta, tolong dipertimbangkan buat beli UPS.


juviegar

Kriteria UPS yg bagus gimana sih? Misal buat PC gaming dgn PSU 600W.


jowojindesu

Cari merk yang udah terkenal, misal APC. Kalo buat PSU 600W, pake UPS yang watt nya diatas PSU. Kalo listrik di rumah bener2 jelek, cari UPS Online (harganya jauh lebih mahal).


elonelon

UPS = 2x ukuran PSU. PSU 500W, UPS 1000an


motoxim

Welp.


TheBandot

Jangan lupa RAM. Kalo mau 4 slot harus baca QVL tiap motherboard biar nggak nagis darah kalo udah beli 4 slot dijalankan XMP ternyata nggak bisa boot


XynderK

Nanya dong. Ada motherboard 1 juta ada yg 5 juta. Chipset sama. Biasa bedanya apa aja sih? Ngaruh ngga?


juviegar

Beda di fitur. Di mobo yg murah biasanya VRMnya sedikit dan kualitasnya seadanya, jadi sebisa mungkin jangan dipake buat komponen yang high end atau bahkan dibuat overclock, soalnya ga stabil dan bisa jadi ngerusak mobonya. Bisa juga lane PCIe yang lebih sedikit, ngga ada fitur debug, error LED, port USB-C front panel, I/O shield ngga menyatu dgn motherboard, jumlah USB di port belakang, dsb dsb.


XynderK

Kalau asumsinya ngga overclock diluar overclock bawaan VGA / CPU, apakah mobo yg biasa aja udah cukup ? perbandingannya soalnya pas liat2 ada mobo MSI x570 yang 3 juta, tapi ada juga yang 6 juta, 8 juta, bahkan 11 juta. pengen tau aja sih sweet spotnya itu dimana


juviegar

Kayaknya 4,5jt-5jt cukup bagus kayak asrock taichi ato gigabyte aorus elite.


TheBandot

Motherboard apa yang harganya 1 juta sama 5 juta? Kalau pakai cara generik bedanya dari jumlah slot ram, jumlah VRM sampai daya maks berapa Ampere , jumlah i/o pcie, jumlah pin RGB, ukuran motherboard, pcb layer, masih banyak lagi


XynderK

Misalnya ada MSI X570-A pro harganya 3 juta, ada ROG Crosshair VIII 15 juta. secara slot RAM gitu2 sih emang keliatan ya, cuma penasaran aja sih bisa beda 5 kali lipat itu apakah worth it ? kelebihannya sejauh apa ?


TheBandot

Secara Fisik sangat berbeda jauh MSI X570-A Pro dengan ROG Crosshair VIII Formula. Secara speknya aja udah beda banget konfigurasinya [https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X570-A-PRO/Specification](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X570-A-PRO/Specification) [https://rog.asus.com/id/motherboards/rog-crosshair/rog-crosshair-viii-formula-model/spec](https://rog.asus.com/id/motherboards/rog-crosshair/rog-crosshair-viii-formula-model/spec) ​ Untuk VRM bisa beda jauh sekali kalau VRM kena throttle dipastikan peformanya juga drop. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbyWKufthS4&pp=ugMICgJpZBABGAE%3D](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbyWKufthS4&pp=ugMICgJpZBABGAE%3D) jauh better MSI b550-A Pro ketimbang beli yang MSI X570-A Pro. Kalau mau beli motherboard sesuaikan saja kebutuhan mau dipasang sama cpu apa. nanti ekspansinya apa saja.


XynderK

Iya paham gan udah pasti beda banget sih. Harganya juga jauh kan. Cuma pengen tau aja sih sbenernya yg bener2 ngebedainnya itu apanya. Kok sampe jauh banget dan apakah worth it? Terus kalau mau cari ditengah2nya itu apa yg perlu diperhatikan supaya dapetnya lumayan, lebih kesananya sih. Kalau gpu kan liat clock speed, klo ram liat berapa mhznya, kalau cpu liat berapa core dan clock speednya. Nah kalau mobo liat apanya? Chipset okelah tapi ibi chipset sama harganya jauh banget


motoxim

Sama sih, ada mobo 2 jutaan tapi ada 8 jutaan. Katanya sih beda di materialnya sama VRM-nya biasanya. Sama kayak apa ada port USB-nya gitu


SonicsLV

That's why you need to go to the manufacturer website and use their compare function. Research is the key, there's no easy way.


Wey-Yu

kok /u/mendingrakitpc nda ada disini edit: lah piye kok malah di-suspend wkwkwk


xsanisty

anjay, rakit pc sekarang optionnya bejibun :D jaman ane masih jadi kang rakit pc, pilihan mobo cuma pga 478 untuk yang misquen, ato lga 775 buat yang punya budget processor high end :D mobo penting ada slot agp -\_-, pcie masih barang langka, memory penting udah ddr2 lol btw, kalo buat konten editing, butuh budget berapaan yak


juviegar

Bruuuh what year is that? 2004? 2006? Kontennya video editing? 12jt kayaknya cukup baseline.


xsanisty

>Bruuuh what year is that? 2004? 2006? lol yes, terakhir kerja jadi kang serpis dan kang rakit pc di toko komputer tahun 2006-2007 >Kontennya video editing? yups, ok nyiapin tabungan :v


kebosangar

Tahun 90'an, kompatibilitas komponen antara merk jg ngaruh. Kyk misalnya pakai mobo ini, cocoknya pakai sound card (jaman dulu kgk ada on board sound card) yang tertentu saja. CD-Rom? Oh Tuhan ku. Sebelum ada plug and play. Orang2 pada plug and pray.


xsanisty

ane juga masih ngalamin jualan sound card 50k :D rakit pc fdd 1 1/4" dan cd-rom masih default, cd-rom masih 150-200k, kalo cd-rw 350-500k jualan flashdisk masih ada cd drivernya :v


kebosangar

Memory favorite gue jaman itu sih ada yang ngomong "Eh pake motherboard ini aja. Buatan Taiwan emang, tapi bagus, murah lagi! Merknya Asus." 🤣


motoxim

Udah level up ya dan gak murah kayak dulu. Dulu mobo apa yang dianggep wah?


kebosangar

Intel. Cpu Intel, yah, processor biar aman pake mobo intel donk? Tapi lama2 karena harga rendah dan kualitas naik dari oem lain, orang dah lupa atau dah kgk perlu lagi beli mobo Intel. Intel jg baru stop bikin mobo sekitar 2010 keatas gitu iirc.


xsanisty

MSI, gigabyte mayan mahal kalo mo murah asrock


motoxim

Saya paksi mobo Asrock :(


gefrost7

alasan tidak pake rx6400 : \-kalo pake software adobe, jauh jauh dari gpu amd khusunya video eidting


amememex

rtx 2060 6gb second 4.5 jt ++ an worth it gak bro? sekarang masih pake 1060 6gb


SonicsLV

No since you already using 1060. Wait for 4000 series and then see if their price fit within your budget or you can hopefully get cheaper 3000 series then.


Craft099

No, nothing is worth it with that prices. Dari awal naik juga semua gpu gk worth it tapi bagi orang tertentu mau gimana lagi harus yang bener2 butuh aja. Mending tahan aja bro sampe harga bener2 normal.


dissapointArby

Ikut nanya nih bang gua mau ambil RTX 2060 buat sekarang worth ga ya? Keperluan : Illustrasi , gaming ( penginnya 1080p, high) , blender.


Craft099

Rtx 2060 secara perfoma lebih baik dibanding rtx 3050. Secara harga rtx 3050 lebih murah. Di banding2kan aja sama kamu. Mau harga murah atau mau performa baik.


dissapointArby

Peforma sih bang, tadi niatnya mau ke RX 6600 tapi tergiur optix X nvidia buat render


Areion00

Yo op, mau nambahin sedikit. Saya justru ngga bisa rekomendasi rx 6400 dan rx 6500. Alesannya karena lane pcie-nya cuman 4 dan minimal pcie gen 4 biar optimal, karena jalur data yang kecil bakalan ngefek ke performa sistem secara keseluruhan, apalagi untuk sistem lama yang cuman punya pcie gen 3, performanya bisa turun 30% dari sistem yang udah pake pcie gen 4 karena bandwith data yang diterima sama gpu kurang banyak. Juga rx 6400 dan 6500 engga punya encoder video h.265 dan decoder av1, sangat tidak direkomendasikan buat vga murah, apalagi kalau workloadnya export dan import video. Alternatifnya turun ke GTX 1050ti atau paksa budget ke GTX 1650 atau GTX 1660.


Pandawisdom

Tambahan, buat patokan, temen ada yg pake Ryzen 5600G tanpa GPU bisa main Forza Horizon 5 lancar dan stabil 60fps. Kalo masih budget ini CPU terbaik yg ada sekarang Mobo itu sebenernya yg B520 sudah sangat mumpuni, yg belakang 50 keatas itu cuma buat tambahan fitur, jangan dipikirin. PSU banyak yg bilang jangan beli murahan, atau harus beli min GOLD tapi sebenernya pake yg biasa white atau bronze aja oke, ga kerasa bedanya. Tapi tetep pilih merk yg bagusan. CASE pastiin ada fan paling ga 1 depan 1 belakang, kalo lepas jangan lupa arah fan SELALU SAMA depan belakang, 1 buat nari dari luar, 1 buat buang dari dalam ke luar. Cari case yg psu bawah (kebanyakan udah gini cuma ada beberapa yg psu masih atas). RAM jangan kepancing murah aja 16gb, cari yg min 3000mhz, ini pengaruh STORAGE, ssd harga entah kenapa di Indo mirip dengan hdd, JANGAN beli m.2, ga worth it. GAME, jangan kemakan omongan harus 60fps, dulu jaman susah main witcher 3 pake GTX 650m 20-30FPS ga rasa beda tapi mungin jangan pinjem PC temen yg high end, baliknya susah. Kalo ada mau tanya apa mungkin gw bisa bantuin OP jawab. Pamer sedikit karena jarang ada yg nanyain *sadge* CPU Ryzen 5600x Mobo Asrock Steellegend B550m Ram standard Balistix 16GB 3200hz GPU Gigabyte RTX3070 dapet murah pas di luar negri pas launch day


Craft099

Uh oh aku pingin juga pamer - a320m - Ryzen 3 3200g - R9 370 4gb - 8x2 gb drr4 2666 mhz - Hdd 3tb - Sdd nanti pengen nabung langsung 1tb sekalian.


indomienator

VGA kalo bisa RX 570 370 terlalu boros sama performanya gak worth it ngeliat konsumsi listriknya


Pandawisdom

Kalo di ganti 370 ke 570 itu mending ga ganti sekalian nabung buat 5600G


indomienator

Ya lu VGA gak nendang sama aja


KusukJaya

Storage, ssd jangan beli m.2 nggak worth it. Bisa elaborate?


Pandawisdom

Terlalu mahal buat yg lu dapet. Pake ssd sata udah sangat cukup. Boot time cepet, load game cepet.


KusukJaya

Nvme m.2 lebih nggak worth it lagi ya bro?


Pandawisdom

Muter aja lu bro, intinya kalo budget gausah maksain nvme m.2, ssd sata sangat cukup


fajarmanutd

M2 based storage enak dari sisi manajemen kabel. Tinggal tancep buat data dan power. Beda sama SATA. Gue terakhir kali upgrade sengaja cari yang slot NVME M2 nya ada 2, jadi kalo mau nambah storage ga ribet narik-narik kabelnya wkwk


alvinvin00

in comparison, consoles are 30 fps, movies are 24 fps, so i think as long as you enjoy watching movies, you should be fine playing games at 24 fps minimum (60 fps are for FPS gamers)


SonicsLV

This is false. Playing games at low fps will feel choppy and not responsive. The last part is the most important that you won't realize if you just compare fps to movie since you are passive participant in a movie, not active one. Your performance in game will definitely affected by fps like timing of jumps or blocking or countering attacks, not only in FPS games.


alvinvin00

yeah, it depends on games tho, high FPS definitely needed for games that needs precise inputs, you don't need 60 FPS for a turn based games lol


MalesCebok

diawal tuh pilih monitor. bukan psu. psu ngikut sistem. ya kali beli psu dulu trus klo psunya kekecilan gmn??


juviegar

Kalo budgetnya memang tinggi memang begitu, soalnya yg menentukan penggunaannya. Kalo budget seadanya ya PSU yg diutamakan.


izfanx

Utamakan kualitas PSUnya. Wattage tetep ngikutin target komponen lo lah mau gamau.


reddit-tempmail

Dulu kalo mau beli komputer selalu rakit sendiri. Sekarang harga pc spek sama jauh lebih mahal daripada laptop. Akhirnya sekarang pilih beli laptop aja dibanding rakit sendiri, dapet windows gratis pula 😂 Oh ya kalo jaman dulu banyak yang dateng ke toko komputer buat konsultasi, nanti bisa dibantu dirakit disana. Abis speknya dapet, bisa compare harganya ke toko2 sebelah 🤣


cosmiccat5758

Save dulu gann. Siapa tau dana ad rakit pc lg.


Academic_Crab_8401

Dari judul kirain ini guide "merakit" nya. Taunya "meracik". Gw tim 50% dari budget buat GPU. Udah susah sih sekarang buat begitu, harga motherboard mahal-mahal bener skrng.


bimboo65

psu ane kelas bawah,setahun ganti 1 x


Kaizenou

Ninggalin jejak dulu


Righart

Ada rekomendasi utk PSU 750w? Rencana mau upgrade pelan2, jadi kalau begitu yang pertama saya upgrade PSU dulu ya? Goalnya : CPU R 5600/5800, GPU RTX 3060 ti (apakah PSU 750w cukup?)


Pandawisdom

Bro gw pake 3070, 5600x psu cuma 650 wkwk, santai aja, ga ada masalah, sebelum ganti malah pake 550w


Righart

Wah, syukurlah kalau begitu. Btw, lu pake PSU apa bro?


Pandawisdom

Cooler master MWE Gold 650 v2, dari dulu pake cooler master, kayaknya yg harga paling sesuai ama barang ini, soalnya kalo inget2 dulu milih psu bisa abis 2 minggu


Righart

Sip, thank you bro!


PembohongYangJujur

Overkill 750. 650 aja lebih dari cukup. 550 juga bisa. 3060ti cuma butuh satu kabel power. cuma beberapa brand aja yang ngasih dua colokan buat oc. Ryzen 5XXX versi yang gak power hungry. tetep panas tapi. Kalo beli Ryzen beli kipas yang bagusan biar gak kayak mesin jet sistem lo.


Righart

Iya bro, gw pas baca rtx 3060ti yang asus tuf disana nulis recommended psu 750w soalnya wkwkwkw. Kalo beli ryzen yg paketan sama kipas worth it gak bro?


PembohongYangJujur

Ryzen gak termasuk kipas. lo emang harus beli sendiri. yang 1jt-an udah oke merk kayak BeQuiet! atau Noctua, gue lupa serinya. Kalo mau silent/low noise harus yang high end kalo pake Ryzen. TUF itu tier budgetnya ASUS. Kalo gue gak salah inget power draw-nya malah masih dibawah reference card, gak sampe 220W, Mungkin cuma 200an or something. Asus yang Strix baru deh yang 220W+ ini bisa jadi butuh 650W or more, apalagi kalo di overclock. Kalo seller emang suka ngasih recommended tinggi biar dia gak disalah2in kalo kenapa2.


Apapunitulah

\#teamLaptop, tapi penasaran ama topik rakit PC


lebaran

Buat saya milih PSU PC sih sederhana saja. Gak usah terlalu overkill juga. Tapi ya jangan terllau pelit juga. Dulu waktu masih jamannya Core2 Duo + GPU 4770, dan slot SATA nya keisi HDD semua. Saya pakai Seasonic S12-2 520W. Penggunaan cpu dan gpu nya sih nggak overclock tapi running 24x7, dari 2010 sampai tahun 2016 . PSU ini bisa dibilang kelas menengah lah pada waktu itu. Dari segi dalemannya pun berkualitas dengan harga yang masih masuk akal. Dan terbukti sampai udah gak saya gunakan PC itu lagi, PSU nya masih dalam kondisi baik. Harusnya PSU ini masih bisa dipakai sampai sekarang. Palingan cuman prelu rekondisi elconya aja. Cuman emang susah sih cari komponennya, mesti beli dari olshop luar. Toh PSU lain yang kelasnya dibawahnya ini, (Acbel E2 Power 470), pemakaian dari tahun 2008 sampai sekarang pun juga masih-baik-baik saja digunakan di PC yang saya pakai buat nge-reddit ini. Jadi gak perlu beli PSU tiap ganti/rakit PC baru. Selama kebutuhan daya masih mencukupi untuk PC barunya. Yang penting sering-sering dirawat/direkondisi komponen elconya. Karena komponen terlemah di PSU itu adalah elconya, yang akan terdegradasi dimakan usia, meskipun gak dinyalakan. Komponen solid state seperti Dioda/Mosfet,Transistor/IC bisa bertahan puluhan tahun selama pemakaian sesuai denga rating kerjanya. Lalu soal brand PSU itu gak selalu menjamin. Ada juga brand Tier 1 yang juga ngeluarin produk yang asal-asalan/pakai komponen murah buat menekan harga. Lagipula kalsifikasi berdasarkan Tier list untuk PSU itu kadang kebawa gimmick juga sih. Ini sama seperti hal-hal gimmick di audiophile. Misalnya soal tegangan ripple di output PSU, selama masih dalam standarnya seharusnya sih wajar-wajar saja. Toh lagian yang ngeluarin ripple itu gak cuman PSU aja. Mainboard dan komponen lain pun bisa nge-generate ripple.


RangerProfia95

Udah lama beralih ke laptop gaming (karena udah jarang nyentuh PC, plus butuh yg mobile. Skrg posisi pake legion 5i pro dan semua kebutuhan udah kecover sama laptop tsb). Tpi ada wacana pingin bangun PC lagi sih buat dipake orang" rumah, skrg ada PSU Superflower 500w peninggalan pc rakitan ane pas jaman nvidia fermi (gtx 500 series) & amd bulldozer (fx series) dan masih berfungsi sampe skrg. Kepikiran buat bikin spek sekelas i3 gen 12 / i5 gen 11 dipaduin sama 3050.


Opening_Pick_7222

[https://youtu.be/vT6kSJBOsVI](https://youtu.be/vT6kSJBOsVI) coba liat ini buat yg awam


OldBadHabit

I'm saving this post, thank you for helping me understand.


kazuaica

Ingatlah. Komponen utama PC adalah PSU dan Casing-nya. GPU memang mahal. Tapi GPU rusak jarang banget ikut ngerusakin komponen lain. PSU rusak, h2c komponen lain ga ikut kena. Casing juga penting, kenapa? Casing perlu bongkar pasang buat bersihin. Semakin baik semakin mudah semakin enak, dan juga durabilitasnya bagus. Alasan lain kenapa casing juga, karena casing mungkin bakal jadi komponen yang paling jarang lo upgrade. Mending beli casing bagus sekalian daripada yang jelek. Airflow juga harus diperhatikan


k0MraD_kaT

banh mending beli 1050ti ato rx 6400?


Craft099

Rx 6400


corn_soup

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juviegar

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